A straightforward swap, where the rail and header bracket are sound and just need a new motor head, runs shorter than a full install where we're replacing bent or undersized hardware from the original build. Houses from the 1970 era often have a header bracket that was fine for a lighter original door but undersized for a heavier insulated replacement door installed later - if that's the case, we're not just hanging a new opener, we're correcting the mounting point first. We won't rush that step. An opener bolted to a bracket that's already flexing will fail again, usually within a season, and winching it tight doesn't fix bad leverage. If the job needs structural correction we'll say so before we start, not after.